FRANCE 2015 Chapter 10

At long last we managed to find time to visit one of the small towns near us – namely St Salvadou. We drove through it some time ago and thought it was rather dreary, but now, with the gardens all planted up and a few spring blooms in evidence, we have changed our minds. It is, in fact, quite an attractive little town with most of the houses built of the lovely pale local stone, with black roofs. The church, of course, towers over everything as ever. Apart from a roofer who was doing some repairs to one of the houses, everything was closed and silent. Will we never learn??!! It was, of course, Monday, the day when everything closes. Still, it gave a us a chance to look around. We had hoped to drive on to another village close by, but, would you believe it, it started raining so we headed for home again instead.

The rest of the week was fairly uneventful with the weather very unsettled, so the men got on with the front porch cover. One day was too windy to be handling huge sheets of extra-thick glass; another was too wet, so it was Thursday before they could really get stuck in to the job. Earlier in the week they had managed to pull, push, shove, haul and lift the very heavy framework, with one pane of glass in it, up into position, so now it was a matter of getting the second pane in. It was fairly nerve-wracking to watch as they manoeuvred the large, slippery, heavy piece of glass into place – one standing on the porch, the other teetering on a narrow ledge outside about six feet up. But it was done, and on Saturday the third (and last) piece was put in, so the job was almost done.

On Friday we had been invited to meet some other ex-South Africans who settled here about five years ago and have been spending their time restoring an old cottage to live in. The meeting had been arranged by Jayne, the lady who came and cut our hair, who is English. She and her husband live not too far away from the ex-South Africans and are good friends. What a delightful and entertaining group they all turned out to be. We had been invited for about 3.30 pm, so, with an hour and a half’s drive ahead of us we left the house at 2 pm, not sure whether we had been invited for tea or early dinner, but looking forward to it. From where we are to where they live, we had to first meander down in to the Aveyron River valley and then climb up, up and over the Aubrac Hills before going down again to the Dourdou River valley and once more up again. It was quite a trip, but we had been given very precise instructions on how to get there. I loved the one bit that said, “….bear left at the iron horse” and couldn’t wait to find out what that was. It turned out to be another of these animal sculptures such as we had seen in Baraqueville – this time a life-sized horse made out of welded together bits and pieces of old iron. They are amazing art works.

During the drive when we had climbed up the Aubrac Hills, we reached a certain point which was the highest in the area and the views were incredible. The day was sunny and warm, so there was a little bit of haze on the horizon, but even so, we could almost see forever. When we returned later that night, in the dark, we could see lights twinkling on and on and on. So pretty.

Our ex-South African hosts were Alan and Michelle and Alan had kindly offered to meet us in a small town nearby and lead us to their house, but when we arrived at the meeting place in St Cyprien-sur-Dourdou, he suggested that we leave our car where it was and go in his car, and he would take us on a scenic route back to the house. Only too delighted, we hopped into his car and off we went. First, he took us along the Dourdou River to an ancient Roman Bridge which is still used today. According to Alan, the bridge is even used by delivery trucks as long as they are narrow enough to fit between the side walls. This is an amazing fact as the bridge is almost two thousand years old. From that point, the medieval town of Conques and the Abbey of St Foy is around a bend in the river, but  Alan said that visiting the town would take a whole day, so instead we drove up the hill to a view-site overlooking the town. It is certainly a spectacular town and one that we must definitely visit soon. It is one of the major stopping places on the Route to Compostella  and pilgrims are still accommodated in the abbey and cared for by the monks. Our hostess for the evening, Michelle, works in the Abbey and told us that at times and in season, they have anything up to eighteen hundred people through the abbey per day. They work very hard!

Jayne and her husband arrived a little while after we got to the house and we sat out on the balcony enjoying drinks and snacks, while enjoying the view as well. From their house you look down over fields and trees to a river, and it was extraordinarily satisfying to sit and watch the birds flying around, the calves in the next door field prancing about and listen to everybody chatting

The rest of the evening passed off very well indeed. Apart from all the rest of her talents, Michelle is a first-class cook, having at one stage run a restaurant in Durban, South Africa. So we were treated to a superb meal and delicious wine. The chat continued into late at night and then Jayne and her husband took us back to our car as it was on their way home, and we set off on our drive back again. A delightful afternoon and evening altogether.

This week has ended on a truly gastronomic note as, on Sunday, we went with our hosts (who own the gite) to visit friends of theirs who live about twenty-five kilometres north of where we are. This lady, too, is a superb cook and we were once again treated to a delicious meal. When we arrived a bit after midday, it was sunny and warm enough to sit outdoors for a while, although we moved indoors to eat. What a good idea that was! We had hardly reached the coffee stage when the heavens opened and rain started pouring down accompanied by lightning and thunder. This really is the weirdest weather.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

FRANCE 2015 Chapter 9

We trotted off to our appointment with the estate agent on Monday afternoon, taking our hosts with us as back up. They had not seen the house or the village before so we were hoping, sort of, that they would find the radical fault that would allow us to withdraw gracefully. They, however, fell in love with the place immediately and started pointing out all manner of benefits to us holidaying there. (Perhaps they want to get rid of us!) We promised to confer with the family before committing ourselves in any way, but two things were certain – we are totally in love with the house and the village; and it is way out of our budget, unless by a miracle we win the lottery. And it would have to be the French lottery as the jackpot from the South African one would barely cover the price. The end is result is that most of you will be seeing us again when we return home!!

Back home again, and while we mulled over all the pro’s and con’s, but always coming to the same conclusion, the two men got busy doing ‘boy’ things in the workshop. This is a large area also built under the front of the house, behind our gite, and reminds me very much of my father’s workshop in Durban. Our house there was built on quite a steep slope and the front section had been built up to reach normal floor level. The space thus created made an ideal space for a ‘get-out-of-the-wifes-way’ glory hole and Dad spent many happy hours there fixing broken household items or just tinkering with things. This particular workshop is very orderly with everything in its place and mostly clean and swept, so it is a pleasure to work in there. Earlier last week someone knocked the wing mirror off our hosts car, but all the bits were carefully collected so Tuesday was spent trying to put it all together again. It was a beautiful day and quite still, so we took all our lunch bits and pieces and ate out on the terrace. Very French!

On Thursday we persuaded our French-speaking hostess to phone the Prefecture in Auch for us again to ask how much longer it was going to take before we heard anything about our residency permits, as it is now less than a month to our return date. Imagine our shock when she said that it was unlikely to be before the end of May and could even be in June, which is why she had issued us with temporary permits to the end of June. Now what?! Talk about throwing the cat amongst the pigeons………..we were in a complete flap! All sorts of thoughts rushed into my mind – we would have to change our return flights and the hire car booking (easy enough); we would run out of our chronic medicines long before the new return date (something could probably be managed); would we be able to stay on in our present accommodation or have they other bookings (have to find out about that) and so on and so. After Neels had calmed me down and pointed out that it was also possible that we would get our new cards in time, I began to think a bit more rationally but that didn’t last long as I realised that I only have winter clothing with me which is already a bit heavy for some of the days we have had. Oh dear! Always something to worry about!!

Friday and Sunday were both fairly cold and wet but we took ourselves out for a drive on Friday just to give ourselves something else to think about. Strangely, the further north we went, the better the weather became, although it was never warm and sunny. Coming back was the reverse and by the time we arrived back at our gite, it was sheeting down with small pieces of hail mixed in with the raindrops. On the day in between, there was much labour going on in the garden, putting up new supports for the portico over the front door. Drilling holes for anchor bolts into solid stone is hard work and I think both men were glad there were two of them to do it. The work  is coming along well and I am hoping to be able to send a photograph of the finished project complete with wisteria growing over the top and tumbling down over the edge. The workmen will have to get a move on though or the wisteria will beat them to it. Actually, I went out to have a look at it a few minutes ago and I see that the wisteria has already beaten them to it!

We obviously have some sort of attraction for cats as there is a little pure white cat that really lives two doors away, which visits every day. As in the case of our ‘part-time’ cat at home, we suspect that she is lonely when everyone goes off to work and to school. She doesn’t really visit us, but rather our host whom she adores. She is not allowed into the house or the gite but may go into the workshop where she will climb up onto tables until she can reach his shoulder where she will perch quite happily until she is pushed off again. She is little more than a kitten and hasn’t yet outgrown the playful phase, so spends endless hours entertaining us with her mad dashes around the garden. We were less impressed when she brought home a baby rabbit she had caught and killed, which she then proceeded to crunch up in the utility room next to the workshop. Nasty little beastie!

FRANCE 2015 Chapter 8

Good Gracious! Winter has gone and Spring has begun with a vengeance! Temperatures that, last week struggled to reach double figures are now raging along with 15, 19 and even 21 degrees forecast for this week. We won’t know ourselves without heaters and electric blankets and four layers of clothing. What a lovely change. The daffodils which always seem to come up too early, have now been overwhelmed by a myriad of pink, white, mauve, blue and yellow flowers and the fields around us are a real sight. What a difference a little bit of sunshine makes.

Monday was a good sunny start to the week but the wind was still bitterly cold and we stayed home and jig-sawed. (Got to get it finished, you see!), but Tuesday was beautiful with much less wind, so off we went on a drive of discovery. For those of you who like to know where we go to, let me just say that it was a huge circular drive. We first drove in to Villefranche and out the other side, choosing the small yellow road between the two big red main roads. This took us to Toulonjac, then on to Sainte Croix, La Capelle Balaguier and Salvagnac-Cajarc  before we crossed the River Lot and landed in Cajarc. From there we followed the Lot valley all the way to Capdenac  then hauled ‘Jane’ out of the glove compartment and asked her to navigate to Peyrusse le Roc, Lanuejouls, Rieupeyroux and finally home using only the back roads. What fun! And what amazing scenery. Castles and chateaux were everywhere; all surrounded by those lush green fields that I spoke about last week. One chateau that we passed  was, we think, fairly newly built and had two strange little turrets attached to the two front corners of the building, but starting about halfway up the wall. They looked for all the world like a salt and pepper set. Another chateau which had been restored had the tallest ‘donjon’ we have ever seen. A Donjon is a fortified tower which also served as a lookout point, so had to be tall enough to see a long way off. I have climbed the stairs at the donjon in Bassoues which I though was tall enough, but this one probably outdid it by quite a few metres. Although now privately owned, the castle is open to the public every summer.

Driving along the riverside was beautiful. The trees are now starting to get that pale green haze around the ends of the branches and twigs, and at places both the road and the river were lined with trees.  The Lot is a very fast flowing river and with all the rain the country has had, it is roaring along now. It is one of the main rivers of France and eventually joins the Garonne which finally runs in to the sea  near Bordeaux. Further downstream from where we were, it is possible cruise on the Lot, but further upstream there are a lot of natural weirs and rapids which would probably make for quite uncomfortable cruising. It would be fun in a canoe though.

Wednesday was of course, drivers day off but we did go into town in the afternoon and just wandered around looking at everything in bright sunlight. The flowerbeds are all starting to bloom and in a week or so it is going to be really pretty. On Thursday the wind howled again, although it has certainly lost it’s ‘nip’. I did a load of washing and had horizontal washing on the line again. It certainly gets dry quickly like that and doesn’t seem to wrap itself around the line like it does at home.

The next day we thought it was about time to put our threats into action and do some house-hunting! What that really means is that we go and ‘bug’ the estate agents and see if any of them can possibly come up with something that ticks all our boxes. It’s a tricky one as we have champagne taste but beer pockets, but if someone can find a champagne house for a beer price, we may seriously consider it as a holiday house for the family..

One agent came up with a really cute house, stone-built, completely restored and at a bargain price! We were very, very tempted and even made an appointment to go and view it on Monday. By the time we got home, however, sanity had returned and we realised that it was not at all practical. It would mean completely furnishing the place, and putting in some sort of heating so that it would be usable year-round. But that didn’t stop us from going off on Saturday morning to have a sneak preview of the village and a further look at the exterior of the house. I have to admit that we are smitten, but common sense tells us that we must walk away. Perhaps we’ll keep our appointment on Monday and just go and look at the interior – we might find something radically wrong with it! In the mean time we will continue to buy lottery tickets in the hopes that if we’re in it, we may win it!

Our hosts arrived back on Sunday afternoon after a week away and seemed to find everything still as they left it. We spent a very pleasant evening with them exchanging news of what we had all done while they were away.

FRANCE 2015 Chapter 7

The time has come, I think, for me to make a huge confession. To come clean; come out of the cupboard or whatever. I have to admit that I am an out-and-out, reckless and heedless addict! Like all addicts, I always say that I can stop any time I want to, but it is just not true. When faced with the object of my addiction, there is no holding me back – I have to have it, and I have to finish it. I just can’t stop. Just what is it that I am addicted to? It is to puzzles. Crossword puzzles, quizzes and jigsaw puzzles are the top of my list, and I am driven to finish each puzzle as fast as I can. And why am I saying all this? Because before our hosts left for a week away, they made sure that we were well supplied with wet-weather entertainment – books, DVD’s and a JIGSAW PUZZLE! It has to be one of the more difficult puzzles we have ever attempted, but Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday passed in a flash and we hardly noticed the rain pouring down.

Thursday was the highlight of the week as the friends who look after our car when we are not here, took a few days off from their busy retirement (!) and came to explore the Aveyron. Naturally they came to see us and inspect our new quarters, and agreed that though very small, our two rooms are very cosy and have a splendid view. We took them out to lunch at Sauveterre, which is one of the small towns we have enjoyed most in our, until now, limited sight-seeing. Happily they also seemed to enjoy it and we spent a pleasant day there, with the sun making a good effort, but (as teachers were so fond of writing into my report cards)it could have done better.One of Sauveterre's claims to fame is the fact that they manufacture pocket knives there. Most people will have heard of the Opinel as the quintessential French pocket knife, but Sauveterre make a slightly different version called the Laguiole. Next door to the restaurant where we had lunch was a knife makers shop and we went in for a look. While  in there Neels found a 'fire stick' which he proceeded to demonstrate. This is a long straight stick, hollowed out down the middle and with a small twig left attached near the top end. It is used as one would use bellows to blow on a fire and the twig is for hanging it up on a nail. It is a very traditional piece of equipment and we were surprised to see them for sale in the shop. The nasty breeze was still simply freezing but with scarves and fleeces we made it through the day.

Friday was very little better but we went for a drive anyway. After passing through Rieupeyroux, we travelled further east to the next town of any size – Baraqueville. A strange little place, it seems as if there was a big move to restore and modernise, and then everyone lost interest, or perhaps ran out of money. Standing rather forlornly on the side of the road in the centre of town was an amazing metal sculpture. We almost missed it but went back to look at it properly. It turned out to be  made of everyone’s scrap iron and is superb work. It must have taken months to weld all the small locks, keys, spanners, bolts, chains and motor spare parts together and to create something that is lifesized and recognisable, but there isn’t even a plaque next to it crediting to the work to it’s creator.

Saturday and Sunday were again jigsaw days, although the sun did come out for quite a while on Sunday, but the freezing wind kept blowing. I’m not sure if we are enjoying this!!

As there is nothing of real interest this week, I thought I would share some trivia that has made us smile. Such as……..the farmer on whose land this house is built, is a dairy farmer with fields all around, all dotted with big, fat, black and  white Friesland cows who munch away on the lush green grass all day and who seem very contented. The farmer and his wife make cheese which they sell at the local market on Thursdays and at neighbouring  villages on their respective market days. Lots of cows means plenty of ‘top dressing’ for the fields (which is why they are so green and lush). Whenever the farmer carts a load away to put onto a field he uses a special trailer for his tractor and we were highly amused to notice that the manufacturer of the trailer, written in large letters on the back of it, is PONGE. I couldn’t have said it better myself!