Sunday, May 4, 2014

France 2014 Number 12

When the sun finally decided to appear on Wednesday, we took advantage of it and jumped in the car for a drive around the countryside. There are dozens of tiny villages and hamlets within a radius of less than twenty kilometres from where we are, so we just selected a few of them and then joined the dots to give ourselves a circular drive. We started off though by popping in at a friend’s house to photograph the bluebells growing in the little woodland he has behind the house. They are so beautiful and such a delicate shade of blue. Then we set off on our round trip – Lezay, where we went for the Brass Band concert, then Vanzay, Messé, Vancais (tricky one that, with Vanzay just a short while before it), Chey then back to Lezay and home. Lovely farming countryside, all green and gold at present with the wheat coming on and the canola flowers just about going off, and big clumps of woodland and forest where the trees meet over the road to form a green tunnel. The village houses in this area are all built of stone but the stone has been shaped into regular brick-shaped pieces and carefully laid in courses, like brick. It is a very attractive style and naturally with walls that are a metre or more thick, the houses are well insulated. It was a scenic drive but not a very photographic one.
A different friend phoned that evening to ask if we would like to go to a vide grenier with them the next day, and of course we said yes. Fortunately they collected us and we all went in one car, or we would probably still be driving around in circles trying to find the village. There was a fair turnout in spite of the grey weather, and a small group of men playing piano-accordions and clarinets lent a very ‘French’ atmosphere to the affair. After a while the grey day lightened up and it got quite warm in the sun, so we went into the hall to see an art exhibition put on by the local amateur art group and a couple of more professional artists from the region. There was some beautiful work there and not too out-landishly expensive, but nothing that I could easily fit into my suitcase, I’m afraid. By the time we left at lunchtime, it was drizzling again and people were packing up early.
By Friday, there was a very real possibility that we would run out of clean clothes to wear, so in spite of the weather, which now couldn’t make up its mind whether to rain or not, we did two loads of washing and turned the back verandah into a Chinese laundry and hoped it would get dry. After lunch, when it seemed as though it was, after all, not going to rain, we went out. We had promised ourselves that we would get back to the Chateau at Dampierre sur Boutonne so that is where we were aiming for. All the way there we were driving in and out of showers but they were short-lived and we hoped that when we got there it would be in a gap between two showers.
We had set ‘Jane’ to take us via the shortest route which always involves a lot of narrow lanes and farm roads, and as a result, we came across a remarkable little park on the site of the origin of the Sompteuse River. A small hill slopes down to an area where the many springs have been channeled into two wash houses and an extraordinary oval pool, before rushing away in to the valley below. The area around has been cleared and someone has planted many varieties of hydrangeas in beds, with a placard listing them all. It must look amazing when they are all in flower. This was near a small village called Sompt. But we couldn’t waste too much time, so on we went to the chateau. We were very lucky to find that an English-speaking guide had started to work there just that day and we were her first tourists.
The Renaissance-style chateau is built on a small island in the Boutonne River, which may have been a good idea from a defence point of view, when it was built in 995 AD (!!) but it has been at the mercy of the river ever since then, with frequent flooding and marshy ground underfoot taking their toll. The last and almost final disaster to strike was a terrible fire in 1992 which nearly destroyed the whole place. The village folk rallied round and most of the 17th century furniture was saved, including some incredible 18th century tapestries and some priceless artwork. The chateau has been rebuilt several times in its life, but the present building dates from about 1550 AD. The ground floor is mainly reception rooms and the kitchen, with bedrooms and sitting rooms on the first floor, while the enormous attic space houses a collection of artefacts from all around the world, collected by one or another of the owners at various times. And then there are the gardens. Once beautifully laid out formal gardens, they went through a period of neglect and flooding and are only now being restored Perfectly clipped hedges form a labyrinthine maze to the rear of the chateau, while behind that is a long curved hedge with arches cut in it. Behind each arch stands a perfectly formed ball shaped shrub, and the disciplined rows of planted woodland taper off into the distance. Keeping it looking like it does must involve a huge amount of work, and expense, in a country where workers are few and labour costs plenty.
The only really good day of the week was Sunday so we leapt into the car and pointed the nose east. We had been asked to go and find a motor-racing circuit known as Val de Vienne about 45 kilometres away and to report back on the facilities. We were not impressed with ‘Jane’ as she had never heard of it,  but we asked her for the nearest town and then found it ourselves – eventually. Seemingly in the middle of nowhere this track appears to be well-maintained and well-used. There was a motor-cycle meeting on the go when we arrived, so we got out to have a look. Was that ever a mistake?? The wind, from which we had been protected while in the car, was absolutely icy and although we both had on fleeces over our jerseys, it was just too cold to sit and watch the racers with any sort of enjoyment.

On the way home we stopped briefly at St Martin l’Ars when we caught sight of a splendid chateau through the trees. But once again, it proved to be a derelict building looking very sad and forgotten. One can only guess at the wealth that the original owners must have had to own and run a place of this size. Obviously the current owners are unable to do so. So sad.

No comments:

Post a Comment