Sunday, June 30, 2013

France 2013 Chapter 19


I really must be losing it!! When I looked for photographs to include with last week’s blog, I couldn’t make out why there seemed to be so few. A couple of days later I discovered the reason – I had forgotten to down load them from my camera! So this week I have included one or two pictures that should have accompanied last week’s episode. They show some of the amazing glass art that we saw at Chateau Lavardens.

This week has been quite an active one. We started off by going to Auch on Monday where the family spent many hours shopping for clothes and shoes. They were in seventh heaven and came out of the shops laden with bags and parcels. I was getting quite concerned about how it was all going to fit back into the suitcases they came with, but found out that an extra fold-away bag had come along too just for this purpose. In the afternoon it was time for some culture and history so we all went to the Cathedral and the old part of town. We dropped the family off at the bottom of the Grand Staircase which leads up to the Cathedral and by the time we had found parking and walked over to the top of the staircase, they were just about there. Auch Cathedral is a place we always visit with friends so we have been there a number of times, but every time we visit, we find something new and interesting to see. This time it was a frieze of gargoyles which we hadn’t noticed previously.

Tuesday was a relatively quiet day spent doing chores in the morning and then out in the afternoon to the little chapel of Notre dame du Cyclistes. We have been there before and it isn’t sensational viewing but is quite a novelty and of interest to anyone involved with cycling. I know I have mentioned in previous blogs the hundreds of cycling jerseys that line the walls, many of them from previous winners of the Tour de France.

Wednesday dawned clear and sunny which pleased everyone, not least of all, Andre who was about to enjoy the last part of his birthday present from Leigh. This was a five-lap run in a single seater racing car at the Nogaro Racing Circuit. It had taken a huge amount of planning and organisation and Andre was thrilled to bits at the idea. It was probably far too short for him to really enjoy himself, but I think he got a good idea of what Formula Renault is like. Perhaps a little tamer than his own racing car, but good all the same. The instructor, who drove ahead of him in a  racing Renault Clio, was very complimentary and said that he was going as fast as possible to stay ahead but that Andre was managing to keep up with him perfectly.

The following day was market day at Eauze – an event all had been looking forward to. The weather was good so the market was well supported and the many stalls spread along the main street as well as up and down the side roads. Having seen it all before Neels and I went off to join Nicky for a cup of coffee at one of the coffee shops and waited for everyone to join us. They seem to have enjoyed the experience and spent much time looking, admiring, tasting and buying. Eventually we decided to stay in town for lunch and go home soon afterwards, which the ‘cooks’ thought was a brilliant idea. And soon after we got home there was a lot of snoring going on from all over the house!

On Friday the family left early for Pont d’Espagne, a point in the Pyrenees where a bridge over a gorge is allegedly on the border between France and Spain. Their drive took them through Lourdes which has suffered terribly in the recent heavy rains and floods, and also Cauterets which was even more badly affected. We had not realised before they left that their route would be so disrupted, or would not have suggested they go. As a result of the bad road conditions, and subsequent lack of tourists, the cableway at the destination was not working so they even lost out on that too, but being ever resourceful, they walked up to the upper cable station and then on further to the bridge over the gorge and the lake beyond that.. I think the girls were worn out by the end of the day, but everyone enjoyed the outing. Meanwhile, back at ‘home’, we packed up our clothes for a week away and enough food  for several armies, in preparation for our week in another rented house in the Aude department, which is part of the Languedoc-Roussillon area of France. Or in simpler terms, in the Southern part of France, not far from Perpignan, in a small town called Paziols.

We managed to get away more or less at the time we had planned to do so, in two cars loaded to the gills, with all our goods. Unbeknown to us, the schools had closed the day before so half of France was on the road with us and traffic was really heavy. A long but uneventful drive during which we were struck, again, with the standard of driving and road courtesy. How we wish a few more locals from home could experience this! We arrived at our destination in time for a late lunch after which we walked down the hill to the village to take a look around. The house is built near the top of a small hill in the town, with only a church above it. The houses are built in higgledy-piggledy style very close to each other and there are few roads but many pathways. This area of France is known for its high winds which apparently blow for 279 days of the 365, and has numerous windfarms dotted around on the hills which supplement the country’s nuclear power stations. Today was no exception and the wind was howling around the corners and slamming the doors of the house.

It is also the area famous for the religious wars between the Catholics and the Cathars and there are some wonderful ruined castles dotted about on the hilltops. On Sunday we visited the Chateau Aguilar, one of these castles and found that quite a lot of restoration work has been done and that the site is very tourist-friendly. Fortunately the wind had died down a little as the castle is perched on top of a hill with steep rocky sides and one would not want to miss one’s footing there.  This area is quite harsh in comparison to the Gers, and reminds us a little of the Karroo with its dry rocky terrain and low-growing, scrubby vegetation. I would not be at all surprised to see snakes from time to time, or the odd scorpion.

After late lunch there was more snoring from all corners of the house for a while and then the family donned swimming costumes and went down to the river to try out the local ‘swimming hole’. The water is very clear, probably very cold and has numerous tiny fish in it, although the man-made ‘beach’ on the banks seems to have been another casualty of the recent heavy rains in the area. All this fresh air is making our seemingly huge stock of food disappear quite rapidly and it is as well that we have a small supermarket in the village. It is so convenient, in fact, that the two grandchildren were persuaded to walk down there to buy some more fruit cordial. A great achievement for two young South Africans in a foreign country.

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