Mallorca 2009 Chapter 10

MALLORCA

Chapter 10


The last chapter of my story may well have given the impression that Barcelona consisted of little more than the Rambla, which would be quite incorrect. It is, in fact, a large sprawling city with an old area and a new part. The old city is what was originally within the city walls and parts of it are still standing although very little is left of the walls themselves. The dark narrow streets are fascinating to wander down, and were full of surprises in the form of tiny shops or restaurants crammed into impossible spaces. There are also residences there, and if one is lucky enough to pass by while the front door is open, a quick glimpse into the interior will often reveal a beautifully furnished room leading to a courtyard beyond, lush with plants and shady trees. The contrast between that and the somewhat dingy exterior can be really startling.
Then, of course, there is the newer part of Barcelona. Having hosted the Olympic Games a few years ago, it was forced to erect many new buildings to accommodate athletes and to provide venues, and although I am not usually a fan of modern abstract building design (which often leaves me feeling somewhat uncomfortable), I have to admit that they have managed to combine modernism and elegance in an excellent balance. Colour has also played a big part and one of the largest new buildings is navy blue with shiny panels, in random uneven stripes, of ceramic tiles. Mosaics, too, are a big feature and can be seen on pavements and walls, all of which adds to the general idea of vibrancy.
All in all, we were very impressed with the city both the old and the new, and would love to go back there again one day to see all the bits we didn’t manage to fit in this time.
Our next venture was a day out in Palma. Strange to think that we have been here for nearly five weeks without exploring the main city yet, so the excursion was well overdue. We took the bus from Santa Ponca and quite by chance chose the slow bus which ambles it’s way through all the suburbs. Actually it was the first one that came along! It was a good way to see some of the other small towns between ourselves and Palma without Neels having to drive, and had the added advantage of dropping us exactly where we wanted to be without having to search for parking.
First stop was the Cathedral, which is a massive block of a building. Perhaps this is why it s still standing, having been started in the 1300’s and having taken 300 years to build. Like a lot of these old churches, it is quite dark inside with wonderful stained glass windows, which immediately cause one to look upwards. It is also the second highest cathedral in Europe with 21.5 meter pillars inside supporting the roof. Quite awe-inspiring!
After that it was a case of wandering randomly through the old part of town – obviously our favourite occupation. We zig-zagged back and forth and finally fetched up in the main square – the Placa Major – which is again a great place for eating and for entertainers. When we arrived, a flamenco dancer was just beginning her routine to the accompaniment of a drummer playing a small bongo-type drum held between his knees. Then, inside the square, there was a group of three acrobats; another invisible man; and a young lady who played the flute, who followed after a man who played a piano accordion. So we sat ourselves down at one of the many tables arranged around the square and had a meal there, while being royally entertained. This particular square is one of the few we encountered that is completely surrounded by three storey buildings. On the inside of the square is a covered walkway separated from the square by arches rather like the cloisters in an abbey. The buildings are apartments which all look down on the square and have little flat balconies and shuttered French doors which are so typical of that period of buiding.
Our day ended with another bus ride back to Santa Ponca, only this time we caught the express which whizzed us back along the motorway in half the time it had taken in the morning.